In maritime terms this means Port side out, starboard home.
When we are tied at a dock in port, what it means to me is that my
port side cabin faces away from the pier where all the activity and
noise is occurring. So while those across the hall from me, no doubt
have their curtains drawn, I am instead sitting at my open window
facing out to a quiet view of the sea beyond the manmade breakwater.
This is a much calmer experience of Ghana then the last two days have
been.
We arrived here at Takoradi on Sunday morning. Ghana was a British
territory until 1957, so consequently a predominately english
speaking, christian country where Sunday equates to closed stores and
church going citizens. Fortunately, Peter, Beatrix and I had signed up
for a day long historical tour which led us away from the quiet city
center. We drive east for an hour to the Elmina Castle. This is a
structure which started out as a fort for the Portuguese in 1482.
Think of the time of Columbus. This fort or "castle" as its referred
to, was the first european structure built in sub-saharan Africa. It
is impressive. Think of Fort Royal, in the "Pirates of the Caribbean".
It is old, with all the required castle components, canons, mote,
dungeons, etc. But this castle is over 500 years old and built in the
tropics!. They built it there to secure a foothold into the interior
of Africa for gold. Then the export of slaves to Brazil and other
Portuguese colonies... think the "Mission". The trade of slaves, gold,
cocoa, sugar went on for 300 years. Rather then feel saddened by the
slave trade part of the story, I must say I was impressed (not really
the politically correct term) of the tenacity of these Portuguese.
Ruthless, determined, creative even they prevailed. The world was huge
back then. Full of sea monsters. It wasn't much before this that they
thought the world was flat and that one could sail off the edge.Life
was short and hard. This African coastline was inhospitable to them
and became known as the white mans "grave coast" with many dying of
malaria and other tropical diseases.
Yet they built this large castle which still exists on this site on
the coast of Ghana. Portugal is a small country now, but once it was
the major international powerhouse ruling the world.
After we toured Elmina Castle, we drive onto another. Our second stop
was at Cape Coast Castle. This one started as a Swedish fort in 1653.
Who knew the Swedes were voyaging down the African coast? Not me. I
did know the Norwegians were whaling in Antarctica, but that was much
later. So why the need for a strong hold on this coast? This was not
made clear to me. The castle had clean Swedish lines though; think
Scandia design! I wonder if the white of the building and blue of the
shutters was truly a Swedish remnant. This would have made an amazing
5star hotel and if it were Italian or french no doubt it would have
been utilized that way. I could easily imagine the pool and terrace in
my mind! Instead it is a World heritage site.Enough said.
At some point the British assumed control, but again this transaction
was not explained thoroughly. The point communicated on the tour was
that once the British had possession, they used this castle for the
transport of slaves. This was THE place from which all slaves departed
onto British ships bound for the Caribbean Islands and the American
colonies. So, during our tour of this castle, we were placed into hot,
dank and dark dungeon cells and made to imagine the crowded, filthy
and scary conditions these poor souls had to endure. Obama toured
these as well with his family; remember? The hot humid air was hard to
endure and I must confess to preferring the ramparts with the sea
breezes and ocean views!
And I must also confess that, while I appreciate the significance of
the atrocity of the human slave trade, what really struck me was how
long ago it ended here. We had watched the movie "Amazing Grace"
during our ocean crossing. It tells the story of William Wilberfort,
who pushed for the end of the slave trade in Britain. He led the
country to end the trade in 1807. This meant that this castle we were
touring had not been an active slave trade post for more then two
hundred years. 200! Slavery continued, but the transportation of more
people from here ended. The castle is old and tired. It sits as a
reminder of a bygone era. It is a sad story to be sure, but an old one
just the same.
My take home "value" for this visit was not what I had expected or
been prompted to expect. I did not become emotional. I instead felt
surprisingly detached. This castle had more significance to me as an
interesting architectural relic.
There is no cellular memory in my bones of the slave experience. No
more so then of Norse raiders, Arabian knights or Plains Indians. The
value in seeing these sites is the reminder that today, in our current
times, slavery does still exist. Rather then looking backward, I can
look around the world today.
Looking out off the rampart at Cape Coast Castle I could watch locals
enjoying their Sunday off playing in the water and sailing their
boats. They seem to have moved beyond dwelling on the past. I
speculate that this "castle" is just an old relic to them as well.
Much like the Pyramids in Egypt are to present day Egyptians. Tourist
sites, with little consequence to present day life accept as a source
of income from the tourist trade.
What else:
While driving around Takoradi, the view from our large air-conditioned
bus was one of shanty houses sprawling as far as the eye could see.
Initial impressions are of poverty everywhere. But this of course is a
western perspective. With a bit further looking I would add the
following: The shanties are small, single roomed wood or mud built
structures with corrugated roofs.They are linked in a maze of sprawl
with no seemingly organized system or plan. Front porches are
prevalent and often include a commercial activity. Canals for
rainwater run along the side and garbage is everywhere. People are
everywhere too. Children in school uniforms walk and adults wait for
the TorTor or communal taxi buses. While not everyone is wearing shoes
and not all children are wearing shirts, I would say that everyone
else is clothed for the tropics. Women wear colorful full length
traditional dresses and walk elegantly tall and straight often with
loads on their heads. A lot of people wave at us as we pass by. I get
the impression that the Ghanaian people are proud and friendly. I also
get the impression that this is a lawful people. The new democratic
independence and religious layering seem to govern affectively. While
poverty by my western standards is hard to ignore, I am not sure they
would use the term on themselves. The majority of urban scape I saw,
suggests that this is the standard living condition. The shanties have
electricity. People appear to have food and water and employment.
Children have free school through the sixth grade. There are christian
churches of all denomination all over the place and signs celebrating
God on many shanty's. From the purely Anthropological and Urban
Planning/Design, of which my education stems, I would venture to say
the Ghanaian's are O.K. It may not be "Pretty" by my western terms,
but I must say that I felt a bit envious of the community interaction
so visible from my bus window. We spent a morning walking around the
commercial core of Takoradi. There was again a vibrancy. I could have
purchased anything I needed as I walked past the street stalls where
the locals shop. This is not a tourist town. We did stand out, but we
were not hassled or hustled. We were able to make purchases and stroll
along quiet pleasantly and talk with store keepers.First impressions
of the 'seediness" of town were replaced by an appreciation for its
thriving chaos.
If I were to overlay any of my Western values and concerns, I would
suggest that population control be of paramount concern. This is not
likely if the catholic doctrine is embraced. The number of children a
women bares is still the method of determining her value. Until this
shifts, I would be concerned that Ghana will stay a third world
country struggling with meeting the basic needs of her people.The tour
guide did allow as to the value of an educated women as a valuable
marriage partner because she would help bring in money through work.
However, this would be secondary to baring children. This is still a
country where numbers of family members equals workers in the fields.
Even though now many actually live in these shanty towns and are not
working in the fields, the value of large families still holds and a
womans' stature is intricately woven with that. I was reminded of our
tour guide in Tanzania in 2004. Sulimonie had 10 children. He had lost
one to malaria but the others had all reached adulthood rather then
half dying as would have in the past. His problem now was how to
support them all. He was part of the transitional experience when
health and prosperity replace death and disease. At some point the
necessity for numerous children is replaced by the converse problem.
Certainly, I would never have entertained the idea of 10 children any
more then he would have thought to have only two. I could see Ghana
going the way of Mexico where the Catholic doctrine overrides family
planning and over population and poverty go to extremes. But maybe
not. this young democracy can go so many directions and there is an
optimism which is palatable.
I wish Ghana well.
-Melissa
Sent from my iPad
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